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Zoeller N53 - 1/3 HP Cast Iron Submersible Sump Pump (Non-Automatic)
Expert Recommended AccessoriesSelected by Jim, our Expert
Required Accessories9
These accessories are required to properly setup/install this product.
Optional Accessories10
Features
Style
Primary
GPH
2680 Gallons
Switch Type
None
Product Video Disclaimer: "PED is not responsible for any variances from the product in this video and the item you purchase. Please review all product specs prior to purchase."
***NON-AUTOMATIC - Requires Float Switch***
Submersible Cast Iron Sump Pump
Offers years of reliable, trouble-free operation
No Sheet Metal Parts To Rust Or Corrode
Stainless steel screws, guard, handle, arm and seal assembly
Thermally Protected, Permanent Split Capacitor Motor
Oil-filled and hermetically sealed to prevent overheating
Carbon & Ceramic Shaft Seal
Assures maximum protection for extended pump life
Powder Coated Epoxy Finish
Provides a corrosion resistant exterior
Clog-Resistant Design
No screen to interfere with flowing debris
Capable of passing 1/2" diameter solids
Industry Leading Quality Control
Entire unit is pressure tested after assembly
California residents see
WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Product QuestionsAnswered by Jim, the Sump Pump Expert
Why does my Zoeller 53 pump make noise but not pump water out?
William
from Connecticut
March 15, 2017
Answer
This sounds like it might be a classic symptom of air-lock. The "weep" hole as it is called should always be drilled in your discharge pipe to prevent an air-lock. This is true in sump and sewage applications. Air locking on a sump pump happens when there is air between the pump and the check valve of the discharge line. The trapped air prevents the impeller from drawing in enough fluid to open the check valve to allow discharge. The weight of the fluid on the topside of the check valve keeps it closed.
The problem is often noticed after the initial use when the pit has had time to dry out during a dry spell. When it gets water in the pit again, the air-lock condition shows up. The pump runs due to the float switch being raised, but can't eject the water because of the air-lock condition. I suggest that you drill a 1/8" or 3/16" hole in your PVC discharge pipe, approximately 4" above your pump's discharge port and well within the inside of the basin. Drill the hole at a 45-degree angle so the hole is pointing toward the bottom of your sump basin. Water will be discharged from the weep hole when your pump operates. This is completely normal.
A typical installation will have the check valve positioned about 2-3 feet above your sump basin cover. If the check valve is screwed directly into the sump pump's discharge port, there is really no place to drill the weep hole, but also less of a chance of air-lock due to the positioning of the check valve. The only problem with installing the check valve directly into the pump's discharge port is that it takes more power and effort for the pump to start due to the added weight of all the water sitting above that check valve, especially if your head is 8 feet or higher. When the check valve is installed above the basin cover, it reduces that starting power and also makes for a much easier method of replacing or performing maintenance on your pump and system. If this was done and you are still having problems, I would suggest calling Zoeller tech support at 800-928-7867 for troubleshooting assistance.
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I just replaced my float for a Zoeller BN53-C...I noticed the wire on the float and the pump is brittle and deteriorating even when I strip the wire back 12 or more inches, is this common problem?. Can pump be rewired, and is there a rewire kit or do I need to buy a new pump? I want the same Zoeller pump but I do not need a new float as I just replaced the old float switch. Also, the new float is not kicking on, and my alarm is going off for high water. I followed the directions. Should I shorten its tether length? Currently it is at 4.5 inches from stack to float. I have a few more technical questions too can you contact me? Hope to hear from you TUESDAY 7/5. Phone:440-214-2047
Paul Mihacevich
from Ohio
July 04, 2016
Answer
Paul,
I would highly suggest reaching out to Zoeller directly. You can reach them at (800) 928-7867.
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My Zoller pump has a threaded female connector on the body. What am I expected to put between the pump body and the bottom clamp of this check valve?
BN
from California
September 17, 2014
Answer
Typical installations will include the discharge PVC Sch40 pipe screwed into the pump discharge port and extending approximately 2-3 feet above the sump basin cover. At this point, you could attach the check valve and then complete your discharge configuration. This method would allow for an easier access point for you to service your pump.
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I have a small catch basin aside my house with underground drain line that runs to the street. Drain line collapsed under sidewalk and with heave rain, catch basin backs up, overflows and I get water in my house. Thinking of putting this pump in the catch basin with a line out to pitched front lawn so when water reaches a certain level in backed up basin it will turn on and pump water out. Does that sound like a fit for this pump?
Gary B
from New York
June 06, 2013
Answer
If your catch basin is at least 18" wide by 24" deep, you might consider the Zoeller model M53 1/3HP Sump Pump or the 1/2HP model M98. The N53 model is a NON-AUTOMATIC pump and would not activate without the help of some type of float switch. The M53 & M98 both include a vertical float switch to activate and deactivate the pump. As long as you can filter debris like leaves and twigs from getting into the pump, you should be fine.
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Is any maintenance required on the M53 pump? I see there are two white plugs on the pump and I'm wondering if oil needs to checked or added periodically or any other type of maintenance is needed.
Jim M
from Nebraska
December 22, 2012
Answer
The only maintenance that is required is what all manufacturers recommend. And that is to inspect your pump, float switch and sump basin every 4-6 months to insure that they are operating properly and there is no debris in your basin that could impede the pump or float switch operation. Oil should NOT need to be added at any time unless the pump develops a leak which is pretty rare. If that should happen, it's usually easier to have it serviced at a local authorized Zoeller service center or replace the pump.
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I am torn between which Zoeller pump would be best for my application. My basement is 104' and currently takes in approximately 3" of water when there is a hard rain. The water is only on one side of the basement and never comes up on the other. Would you recommend a 1/3 hp or 1/2?
Joe
from New Jersey
January 15, 2012
Answer
Without knowing more specifics like the water table, area of the country you live in, actual square footage of your basement, etc., it really is difficult to answer. I can tell you that most average sized homes in an average water table area can usually get away with a 1/3HP or 1/2HP pump. Beware of over-sizing the pump as it could cause the pump to cycle too frequently thereby reducing the life of the pump. You don't want to just install a 3/4HP or 1HP pump just for the sake of it.
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